1982 Ford Alternator Wiring Diagram
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03-22-2009,09:10 AM #1
1g alternator wiring diagram help
Hey, I accept not been able to locate a harness for my alternator and was wondering if anyone knows how to wiring upwardly a 1g alternator...I am not in a position to upgrade to the 3g which is better.
And then I really needs some assist hither.
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03-22-2009,03:30 PM #two
The alternator wiring is pretty simple. The "BAT" terminal is pretty obvious, as is
the "GND" terminal. The only other matter you need for the alternator to accuse is
to connect the "FLD" terminal to the "F" terminal on the regulator. If you lot take
a Motorcraft carburetor, the "STA" terminal connects to the electric choke cap.
Otherwise it doesn't connect to anything.Thank you,
Jeff Cook'85 GT Hatch, v-speed T-Height, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach one, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a one-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio melody
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03-22-2009,07:01 PM #3
Originally Posted past JACook
I usually agree with your advice but on this ane Im pretty sure that he will need more than only the FLD connexion between the alternator and the regulator.This diagram shows a Ford 1G alternator and external regulator wiring excursion:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ALT_wiring.gif
Withal this is for a system that used a charge indicator lamp. The 79-86 Mustangs with the ammeter circuit is slightly different. I havent found a expert online diagram but on the ammeter circuit the switched 12V goes directly to the South (stator) terminal on the regulator. No connection is made at the I (indicator) last on the regulator. The only connection on the STA terminal on the alternator would be the electric asphyxiate (if needed).
Summary for wiring with ammeter (Mustang):
Alternator
B (output stud) - to battery + at starter relay (westward/ fuse link)
STA - to electric choke (if required)
FLD - to F terminal on regulator
GND - to basisRegulator
I - not used in ammeter (Mustang) application
A - to alternator B (output)
F - to alternator FLD
S - to switched 12V (ignition switch)T
MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
EF: Im shootin' puddle Fats. When I miss you can shoot.
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03-22-2009,07:11 PM #four
That diagram shows one way Ford alternators tin can exist wired. My '65 is wired like that.
So, I believe, is my '79 StaWag. They have alternator warning lights. Merely Fords with
gauges are non wired the same way. On Fords with gauges, the line from the ignition
switch connects to the "Due south" concluding on the regulator, and the "I" terminal is unused.The question was on how to wire the alternator. I may take presumed incorrectly
that the regulator wiring was yet intact...Concluding edited by JACook; 03-22-2009 at 07:13 PM.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Blueish 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 Due south-Coiffure 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl iv-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 four-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.six DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio melody
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03-22-2009,07:32 PM #v
Originally Posted past JACook
T
MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.
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03-22-2009,07:44 PM #6
Yes it is. I was commenting on the diagram.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook'85 GT Hatch, five-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 five.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican cake 307 four-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a i-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
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03-23-2009,01:14 PM #7
JACook, the regulator wiring is in tack. My problem is that the harness is totally fried and I had some trying to make me a new i but the dude got arrested...go figure!
I seen that diagram and so which do I use that ane or this style?
"However this is for a system that used a charge indicator lamp. The 79-86 Mustangs with the ammeter excursion is slightly different. I havent found a proficient online diagram but on the ammeter circuit the switched 12V goes straight to the S (stator) terminal on the regulator. No connection is made at the I (indicator) terminal on the regulator. The simply connection on the STA terminal on the alternator would be the electric asphyxiate (if needed).
Summary for wiring with ammeter (Mustang):
Alternator
B (output stud) - to battery + at starter relay (westward/ fuse link)
STA - to electric asphyxiate (if required)
FLD - to F last on regulator
GND - to groundRegulator
I - not used in ammeter (Mustang) awarding
A - to alternator B (output)
F - to alternator FLD
S - to switched 12V (ignition switch)"I only have stock gauges for 1982 GLX 5.0 2bbl Carb
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03-23-2009,10:32 PM #eight
So, are you trying to necktie into the alternator harness plug ? Or practice you need to
rewire all the manner back to the starter relay? The wiring to the regulator, is that
yet usable?What exactly is fried and what isn't?
Cheers,
Jeff Cook'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, v.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Bluish 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 Southward-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Bluish Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a ane-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder iv.six DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
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03-24-2009,11:08 AM #nine
The alternator harness is fried. The female person cease of the connect is fried too there two pictures of this. The last pictures are of how the solenoid is wire and of the voltage regulator.
FordNasty82
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03-24-2009,04:02 PM #10
OK, and then if the only existent problem is that connector, you can but employ a couple butt
splices to eliminate the connector. Or, if y'all're wanting to build a new alternator
harness, the two wires in that connector are the BAT and FLD wires. The large
black/orangish wire goes to the BAT terminal on the alternator, and the smaller orange/
light blue wire goes to the FLD terminal. The BAT wire needs to be at least 10GA,
while the FLD wire can be 18GA or larger. Y'all should run a minimum 16GA ground
wire from one of the basis terminals on the alternator direct to the side of the
engine cake where the battery footing cable bolts on. If you lot accept a Motorcraft
carburetor, run an 18GA wire from the alternator STA terminal to the choke.Cheers,
Jeff Melt'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach ane, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 iv-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a one-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio melody
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03-25-2009,eleven:09 PM #11
Jeff...thank you for the information. I will let yous know how information technology goes, I will be working on information technology tomorrow night.
Brian
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03-27-2009,09:17 PM #12
She is Alive...Alive. The glorious sound of carb mustang firing up, aye.
Cheers Jeff were are you lot at in socal?
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06-22-2009,01:22 PM #13
Tin can someone assistance me with how I would need to wire upwards a 1G alternator and a voltage regulator with no ammeter or idiot calorie-free. I do however, want to wire in a voltmeter. This is a strip car that I am wiring to be able to drive on the street. In that location is currently NO harness in the car at all, starting from scratch. TIA.
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05-24-2011,08:21 AM #fourteen
FEP User
im having similar problems simply all my wiring is correct for alt indicator light but it comes on when the primal is hot and goes off when key is in run. i put a tester on it and says bombardment and alt is adept. i tried to become a replacement regulator for E2AF-10316-AA NEG VOLTAGE REGULATOR but their is no straight replacement. i tried all the ones that cross reference but my alt indicator light stays on with no accuse. IMG_0744.JPG i take it wired exactly as this diagram states amd thats how ford wired it.
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06-20-2011,x:39 PM #fifteen
FEP User
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06-twenty-2011,11:14 PM #16
If you don't accept an ammeter, you withal wire it the aforementioned as if you did. The only time you lot
use the idiot light wiring, is if you accept an idiot calorie-free.Thank you,
Jeff Cook'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE v-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04Azure Blueish 40th Anny Mach i, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Coiffure 4x4 v.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 four-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder iv.six DOHC, J-Mod, iv.10s and Lidio tune
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07-28-2017,07:31 PM #17
1982 Ford Alternator Wiring Diagram
Source: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?73399-1g-alternator-wiring-diagram-help
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